
CATEGORY: RESTAURANT / HOTEL
URL: WWW.LIBRIJE.COM
STYLE:
JONNIE BOER
JANUARY 18TH, 2010
Over the last few years, The Netherlands has rapidly yet quietly become an attractive destination for connoisseurs. As recently as five years ago, the Michelin Guide didn't consider a single Dutch restaurant worthy enough to carry three stars. By 2006, there were already three - which means that the Dutch now have the same number of three-star chefs as Belgium, with its rich gourmet tradition, and the more recently lauded Brits. One of the rising stars of the Dutch culinary world is Jonnie Boer, who as guest chef at the Ikarus in July will be cooking up a treat the Dutch way.
Jonnie Boer is regarded as the most popular chef in The Netherlands, not because of the three Michelin stars, but because of the remarkable modesty he shows towards his accolades. Despite his success and the media attention that goes with it, Boer's feet have remained firmly on the ground. The 40-year-old, who grew up in the country, studied for three years in Amsterdam before turning his back on big city life again to work as a chef in Zwolle - at De Librije (“the library”), where he had already worked as an apprentice. "I feel at home here, and this is also where I belong," says Boer. He had no time for apprenticeships or stints with the big culinary maestros of this world – usually a must for award-seekers. After all, he first had to rebuild and then build up his own restaurant. And was rewarded with success: in 1993, he was awarded his first Michelin star, in 1999 the second and in 2004 the third. What's more, the Gault Millau gave De Librije a spectacular 19.5 out of a possible 20 points.
Boer is one of those chefs who has his roots firmly planted in his region. Which also applies to his cuisine, especially to his ingredients. The star chef has built up a local network of producers who supply him with the freshest products. But just as De Librije is no public house, but a very distinguished restaurant, the products are not meagre, but of the highest quality and correspondingly priced. Whether he buys his lamb from France or the neighbouring village is more or less irrelevant as far as the price is concerned, says Boer. "But I can choose local lamb myself and therefore give my guests more information - because I know everything about the lamb." Boer uses local ingredients to create ingenious dishes such as tartar of langoustine with sherry, yoghurt, preserved cucumbers on warm Pata Negra ham with young spinach and mature farmhouse cheese or sea bass with wild oysters, parsnip mousse on lemongrass sauce with curry and coconut. Connoisseurs are impressed and describe Boer's style of cuisine as varied, bold, fearless. Boer himself says: "Simple, honest, natural, pure." “Pure” was also the name of his first cookbook, “Purer” the name of the second. So what will the third one be called? “Purest”, of course.
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JONNIE BOER
Dutch Glory
On the Rocks; Foie Gras, Beetroot and Oyster
Langoustine with Oloroso and Cucumber
Red Mullet, Shrimp, Lemon grass and Cocos
Sole, "Snert", Topinambour, Bacon and Truffle
Pigeon, Pistache, Lapsang Souchong and Pandan rice
Epoisse, Date, Star Anise and Rabbit Kidney
Decontructed Apple Pie
Tric with the Egg
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